This culinary performance is staged in the restaurant’s open kitchen, where Raita and his son and sous-chef, Momotaro, prepare an ever-evolving 10-course menu for just 15 guests. The result is an intimate view of the artistry of Japanese fine dining.
Architecture plays a central role in the experience. Designed by world renowned architect Koichi Takada, it is a place where the outside world recedes as the evening begins. Takada was inspired by rainy evenings in Tokyo, with a liquid-prism ceiling that evokes shimmering wet streets and an epoxy-resin counter, handmade by Raita and Momotaro, inspired by the ripples of falling raindrops.
We sat down with Raita for a conversation about theatre dining, his love of seasonal produce and good wine, and how architecture shapes a memorable dining experience.
What inspired the concept of ‘theatre dining’?
'Theatre dining’ is a term I came up with because it's the only way I can describe what we're doing. It's not entertainment like a teppanyaki restaurant, where people are throwing eggs. It's a much more intimate experience.
I started my career cooking across a counter, always facing the customer, so I really wanted to get back to my basics. I wanted to control every single detail myself so I could take 100% responsibility for the experience. At the time, there wasn't really anything like this in Australia, so I wanted to create something much closer to the customer.
Here, people can see the kitchen from every angle. They can see what we're doing, feel the energy coming from the kitchen and watch everything happen in real time. That's the relationship I wanted to create between the chef and the guest.
How do the seasons influence your menu?
That’s one of the most important parts of our omakase menu. I go to Sydney Markets more than once a week to source vegetables and fruit, and when I’m there I can see the seasons changing. The chestnuts come out and you know autumn has arrived. Then you see the edible flowers and spring fruit, and you know winter is over.
I try to bring those ingredients into the tasting menu so people can feel the change in season through the food. Seafood in Australia changes a little, but not as much, so fruit and vegetables are really where I can show that difference.
The chestnut dessert is a good example. I bought a 10-kilogram bag of chestnuts and had to peel them all, then cook them slowly and turn them into a purée. It took almost two and a half days. It’s a lot of work, but people can see that seasonal change in the dessert, so we don’t mind spending the time.
Why is wine such an important part of the dining experience?
When I go out for dinner, one of the most exciting parts is looking at the menu and the wine list.
I read the whole wine list. Someone might come over and ask if I’d like something to drink, and I’ll say, “Give me another five or 10 minutes.” Sometimes it takes me half an hour. I’m always thinking about what I want to eat, what I want to drink and what will match best. I’m creating the pairing in my head, and that’s one of the most enjoyable parts for me.
When I have that experience in another restaurant, I want to bring it into my own. The drink should add something extra and take the dining experience to the next level. That’s very important.
What role does architecture play in the dining experience?
I think architecture is very important because it’s the first thing people experience. Before they taste the food, they see the restaurant.
I wanted the space to feel like somewhere in Tokyo, because that’s where I’m from, but I didn’t want it to rely on obvious Japanese elements. A lot of Japanese restaurants use bamboo, timber, ikebana or rice paper to show that they are Japanese, but I don’t really see that in Tokyo. I wanted something more contemporary.
Koichi described Tokyo at night after the rain, when the air feels clear and there's a sense that something is about to happen. I really liked that idea, and it became part of the design.
The counter was also very important to me. Momo and I made it ourselves from epoxy resin, layer by layer, over more than two weeks. I didn’t want marble or stone, or something people had seen before. I wanted it to be unique to the restaurant. When Koichi finally saw it, he said, “This is awesome.”
What do you hope guests take away from the experience?
To me, the food is one part of the restaurant and the drinks are another part, but it's the whole dining experience that's the most important thing. Of course, I want people to have great food and great wine, but I also want them to have fun and experience something they've never seen before.
Even before the first course arrives, people are sitting with a drink, watching us and thinking, "Whoa, what's going to happen?" We can feel that excitement too. It continues right through to the last course. Sometimes guests ask, "How many courses are left?" and when we tell them they're almost at the end, they're a little disappointed because they've had such a good time.
If they leave saying they had a great experience, that's the best thing I can hear.
R by Raita Noda is located in Wunderlich Lane, just steps away from The EVE Hotel. If you would like to make a reservation, visit the website or contact our EVE hosts.
